French markets

ONE of the things I loved during my time in France was the country’s old-school way of enjoying food.

The entire time I was there I hardly came across any big supermarkets. What I did see lots of were plenty of neighborhood butchers, fishmongers, patisseries and, my personal favourite, fromageries (cheese shops).

While all of those neighbourhood shops were brilliant, the real highlight was the markets: big ones, small ones, regional ones, metropolitan ones. Some were listed in the tourist guides and some we just stumbled across when we turned a corner, but each was a bustling centre of producers selling their wares and a mix of locals and tourists browsing, sampling and buying what was on offer including meats, cheeses, olives, fruit, vegetables and even flowers.

But the best thing about the bevy of markets was the classic French attitude that the convenience of a one-stop-shop supermarket is inconsequential compared to being able to stock pantries with food that has been lovingly picked, prepared and then sold with a word or two of advice on how to best prepare it.

I could ramble on about how much of a treat it was to be absorbed in a country that values quality food so highly. But I think in this case pictures speak a thousand words...

- Zoe

Le Bistro Latin

18 rue de la Couronne,
Aix-en-Provence, France
Ph: +33 (0) 4 4238 2288

I was de-virginised in Aix-en-Provence. No, I wasn’t whisked away by a sexy Frenchman on a Vespa but rather I had my first foie gras experience.

I’d been lolling around the south of France for five days but until the very cute and oh-so-French Aix-en-Provence - one of the main towns in the renowned Provence region - my French culinary exploits had been limited.

It was in Aix-en-Provence that I stumbled across le Bistro Latin and it took me about a millisecond to make plans to return for its degustation menu.

The cute restaurant has a tiny dining room on the street level and another space downstairs. French artwork and fresh flowers set the scene but I was there for the food. For a very reasonable 31 euros we dined on four courses but it was the first – the foie gras – that got the juices flowing.

Large chunks of foie gras in a slice of terrine were served on a large, rectangular plate with a sprinkling of cayenne pepper, a conficture d’oignon (onion confit) and slices of toast, which were still warm from the grill when they hit our table. The fois gras was everything I had expected it to be: rich, plump and deliciously tasty.

I could have had four serves of that but it was not to be. Instead I moved to filet de boeuf (steak) with a rich mushroom sauce, caramelised cabbage (weird I know but trust me, it worked) and a selection of vegetables. After three weeks in the carb-loving Croatia, my body was craving red meat and this dish certainly delivered.

Number three on our menu was two small turrets of fresh goats chevre with rocket and half a cherry tomato. Once again, the presentation was superb and set of with a drizzle of olive oil. Simple, tasty and oh-so French.

Our finale was a selection of desserts including a profiterole, fruit salad in a brandy basket and the piece-de-resistance, a crème brulee with a hint of green tea, ginger, ginseng and citrus.

Each tasty morsel was as good as the rest and even though I was quite full from the previous three plates, there was no way I was leaving any of these three sweet treats on the plate.

They say your first time can sometimes be a little unpleasant. But Le Bistro Latin and its foie gras did nothing other than leave me drooling for more.

PS. If you happen to find yourself in Aix-en-Provence, I can highly recommend staying at Hotel le Manoir (8 rue d’Entrecasteaux, Aix-en-Provence. Ph: +33 (0) 442 26 2720). And the best part, it’s only a stone’s throw from le Bistro Latin. Bon appetit!

9/10

- Zoe